There are a few things that I want to do in the next 10 years…
1. I want to go on a 6-day scenic photography trip, preferably someplace like Yellowstone or maybe the Rockies.
2. I want to visit the UK and Ireland.
3. I want to surf.
That’s right…I want to surf. It’s a strange obsession, but I love surf movies, particularly those that concentrate on the big-wave aspects of the sport. I’m not interested in the competitions (ASP World Tour); I’m more into the guys who surf for surfing’s sake, especially when it’s dangerous.
Don’t get me wrong, even if I had been surfing since I was 4, I’m not the type of guy who would’ve ever surfed anything over 10 feet, but the guys who are searching for the first 100-foot surfable wave (Laird Hamilton, Dave Kalama, Brad Gerlach, Mike Parsons, etc.) seem to be the bravest, freest, and downright most insane people on the planet.
Check out this article from the Daily Mail to see some nice, large-sized pictures of Kerby Brown’s massive 41-foot wave right before his burial a few seconds later. And when I say burial, I don’t mean he died. Just read the story…and LOOK AT THE LARGE-SIZED PICTURES.
Here’s the smaller version of the one you should check out:
Also, if you haven’t seen Mike Parson’s 66-foot wave at Jaws, you need to. Here’s the clip that I used in a L1FT message a few years ago called “Get Off the Beach.”